Did you know that there are special care instructions for your dance apparel? You should always follow the care instructions on the garment label to help prolong the life of your apparel. Each apparel item has different care instructions based on its material. Following are just a few examples.
Care instructions on tights are typically: “Hand wash in lukewarm water, separately. Use only non-chlorine bleach when needed. Drip dry.” If you dry your tights, they will shrink!
Care instructions on a 90% cotton/10% Lycra leotard are typically: “Machine wash warm. Use non-chlorine bleach when needed. Tumble dry low, remove while damp. Warm iron.”
Care instructions on a 90% Nylon/10%Lycra leotard are typically: “Machine wash cold. Gently cycle. Use no bleach. Wash colors separately. Line dry. Cool iron. Do not dry clean.”
Bottom line – be sure to read the labels carefully and that will help prolong the life of your dance apparel.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - January 2011)
Mary Ann's Dance and More
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Friday, February 11, 2011
Tight Color Preference
A studio owner posed a question to us a while back – “What determines the color tight a student wears, teacher preference or student skin tone color?” What a great question! So we began researching the answer…
There are varying opinions on this subject. Although pink is the most popular color for dancewear, many of the color choices for tights are based on teacher preference. Some dance schools and instructors are very particular about what clothing items they require and therefore dictate the tight color. However, there are those dance schools and instructors without a preference so it is up to the student to choose a tight color.
We weren’t able to find a written “rule of thumb” but found some guidelines to consider when your studio or teacher isn’t specific about tight color. For example, in most jazz classes the most commonly accepted colors for tights are black or a natural skin tone like nude or suntan. But don’t go crazy, you do not want to attract too much attention to yourself. We also discovered that it is best to match the color of your tights to not only your style of dance but to the rest of your outfit.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - December 2010)
There are varying opinions on this subject. Although pink is the most popular color for dancewear, many of the color choices for tights are based on teacher preference. Some dance schools and instructors are very particular about what clothing items they require and therefore dictate the tight color. However, there are those dance schools and instructors without a preference so it is up to the student to choose a tight color.
We weren’t able to find a written “rule of thumb” but found some guidelines to consider when your studio or teacher isn’t specific about tight color. For example, in most jazz classes the most commonly accepted colors for tights are black or a natural skin tone like nude or suntan. But don’t go crazy, you do not want to attract too much attention to yourself. We also discovered that it is best to match the color of your tights to not only your style of dance but to the rest of your outfit.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - December 2010)
Thursday, February 10, 2011
What exactly is an “over under”?
What exactly is an “over under”? It’s a nude leotard or nude bra. Why would you need an “over under” or nude undergarment? Nude undergarments are a must under your costume or practice apparel. These garments:
* provide added coverage when worn under costumes
* greater privacy during changes backstage
* varied hook placements in back allow you to choose from several different strap positions to work with any costume (including straight back, crisscross and halter)
* many also come with both nude and clear, non-reflective adjustable straps
* offer the same flattering fit as our other leotards, in a thinner material that hugs the shape of the body without bags or wrinkles. Typically made from 83% nylon, 17% spandex.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - October 2010)
* provide added coverage when worn under costumes
* greater privacy during changes backstage
* varied hook placements in back allow you to choose from several different strap positions to work with any costume (including straight back, crisscross and halter)
* many also come with both nude and clear, non-reflective adjustable straps
* offer the same flattering fit as our other leotards, in a thinner material that hugs the shape of the body without bags or wrinkles. Typically made from 83% nylon, 17% spandex.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - October 2010)
Labels:
costumes,
nude undergarment,
over under,
placement
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
The Different Types of Leotards
You probably know that a leotard is a unisex skin-tight one-piece garment that covers the torso but leaves the legs free. But did you know it was made famous by the French acrobatic performer Jules Léotard (1842–1870), about whom the song “The Daring Young Man on the Flying Trapeze” was written.
Leotards are worn by acrobats, gymnasts, dancers, figure skaters, athletes, thespians, and circus performers both as practice garments and performance costumes. They are often worn together with tights and sometime bike shorts.
Ballet leotards come in many different cuts. The three main variations are the sleeve length, the neckline, and the leg cut.
Sleeve Length
TANK leotard
CAMISOLE leotard (a.k.a. spaghetti straps)
SHORT SLEEVE leotard
THREE-QUARTER SLEEVE leotard
LONG SLEEVE leotard
Neckline
The traditional ballet leotard is with a ‘BOAT NECK’, a rounded, wide neck. Leotards have introduced SWEETHEART necklines by gathering the material in the center of the chest; not only is this option fashionable, but many leotards with this neckline are also fully lined, making a separate bra underneath the leotard unnecessary. Less common necklines are V-NECKS and MOCK TURTLENECKS. The HALTER top neckline is becoming more and more common.
Leg Cut
The traditional leotard leg cut is a quite low line on the hip. Most modern versions of the ballet leotard have a slightly higher leg line than the traditional version, but leotards are seldom ‘high cut’. High cut leg lines are more common in fitness leotards and bathing suits.
Tip for finding the right leotard: Be aware that your regular clothes size will differ from dancewear sizing. Many of the major dancewear companies have their own sizing charts and those charts will differ from style to style within the company. The best way to get the right fit is to try the leotard on. Do a few stretches with your arms raised, noting any gaps in material or slipping of shoulder straps. Squat down, as in a plié, and check for pinching or gaping around the legs. Try several styles to find the style that best fits your body.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - September 2010)
Leotards are worn by acrobats, gymnasts, dancers, figure skaters, athletes, thespians, and circus performers both as practice garments and performance costumes. They are often worn together with tights and sometime bike shorts.
Ballet leotards come in many different cuts. The three main variations are the sleeve length, the neckline, and the leg cut.
Sleeve Length
TANK leotard
CAMISOLE leotard (a.k.a. spaghetti straps)
SHORT SLEEVE leotard
THREE-QUARTER SLEEVE leotard
LONG SLEEVE leotard
Neckline
The traditional ballet leotard is with a ‘BOAT NECK’, a rounded, wide neck. Leotards have introduced SWEETHEART necklines by gathering the material in the center of the chest; not only is this option fashionable, but many leotards with this neckline are also fully lined, making a separate bra underneath the leotard unnecessary. Less common necklines are V-NECKS and MOCK TURTLENECKS. The HALTER top neckline is becoming more and more common.
Leg Cut
The traditional leotard leg cut is a quite low line on the hip. Most modern versions of the ballet leotard have a slightly higher leg line than the traditional version, but leotards are seldom ‘high cut’. High cut leg lines are more common in fitness leotards and bathing suits.
Tip for finding the right leotard: Be aware that your regular clothes size will differ from dancewear sizing. Many of the major dancewear companies have their own sizing charts and those charts will differ from style to style within the company. The best way to get the right fit is to try the leotard on. Do a few stretches with your arms raised, noting any gaps in material or slipping of shoulder straps. Squat down, as in a plié, and check for pinching or gaping around the legs. Try several styles to find the style that best fits your body.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - September 2010)
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Helpful Hints When Considering Fabrics
The many types of fabric can be confusing so we’d like to help clear things up regarding some of the materials that are available in dancewear today.
NYLON
Made From: synthetic molecules derived from oil designed to imitate silk. Weight: light Texture: smooth Points: strong, elastic, lustrous, easy to wash, takes color well, does not readily absorb moisture, long-lasting, inexpensive, doesn’t wrinkle Uses: tights, undergarments, leotards, basics, netting and bags.
LYCRA/SPANDEX
Made From: woven or knitted synthetic elastomeric fibers. Weight: light Texture: smooth, silky Points: can be knit with another fiber such as polyester or nylon for a snug fit. Uses: leotards, costumes, basics, tights.
POLYESTER
Made From: woven or knitted synthesized molecules derived from petroleum Weight: light, medium or heavy Texture: slippery, silky Points: made very thin with channels that help to pull moisture away from the body, machine washable, strong, resilient, doesn’t shrink, dries quickly, doesn’t wrinkle or mildew Uses: basics, tights, leotards and costumes.
COTTON
Made From: natural fibers derived from the cotton plant Weight: light, middle or heavy Texture: flat, soft or rugged Points: generally doesn’t pill, easy to work with, breathable, machine washable, comfortable, sturdy, inexpensive, versatile, easily dyed, the most prevalent fiber in the world Uses: fabric of choice for leotards, T-shirts and bottoms used for dance because of their comfort and soft natural feel.
TACTEL
Made From: knit or woven nylon produced from chemicals obtained from oil Weight: very light Texture: very soft Points: dries quickly, breathable, resilient, holds color, long-lasting, machine washable Uses: Leotards, leggings, basics, undergarments.
MERYL
Made From: knit or woven nylon developed by the company Nylstar Weight: light or heavy Texture: soft Points: luxurious feel and is machine washable, drying three times faster than cotton, hampers the production of bacteria on the skin, has UV reflective properties, crease resistant, retains shape Uses: leotards, leggings, undergarments, basics.
SUPPLEX
Made From: knit or woven nylon and spandex blend by the company Invista Weight: light Texture: soft Points: a cotton-like fabric that is breathable, comfortable, moisture wicking, machine washable, won’t shrink or fade Uses: leotards, leggings, undergarments, basics.
BAMBOO
Made From: bamboo plants, an ideal source for fabric production since they grow rapidly Weight: light to medium Texture: soft Points: antimicrobial, thermal regulating, moisture wicking, odor absorbing, resistant to mold and mildew, hypoallergenic Uses: leotards, tights, bags, T-shirts.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - May 2010)
NYLON
Made From: synthetic molecules derived from oil designed to imitate silk. Weight: light Texture: smooth Points: strong, elastic, lustrous, easy to wash, takes color well, does not readily absorb moisture, long-lasting, inexpensive, doesn’t wrinkle Uses: tights, undergarments, leotards, basics, netting and bags.
LYCRA/SPANDEX
Made From: woven or knitted synthetic elastomeric fibers. Weight: light Texture: smooth, silky Points: can be knit with another fiber such as polyester or nylon for a snug fit. Uses: leotards, costumes, basics, tights.
POLYESTER
Made From: woven or knitted synthesized molecules derived from petroleum Weight: light, medium or heavy Texture: slippery, silky Points: made very thin with channels that help to pull moisture away from the body, machine washable, strong, resilient, doesn’t shrink, dries quickly, doesn’t wrinkle or mildew Uses: basics, tights, leotards and costumes.
COTTON
Made From: natural fibers derived from the cotton plant Weight: light, middle or heavy Texture: flat, soft or rugged Points: generally doesn’t pill, easy to work with, breathable, machine washable, comfortable, sturdy, inexpensive, versatile, easily dyed, the most prevalent fiber in the world Uses: fabric of choice for leotards, T-shirts and bottoms used for dance because of their comfort and soft natural feel.
TACTEL
Made From: knit or woven nylon produced from chemicals obtained from oil Weight: very light Texture: very soft Points: dries quickly, breathable, resilient, holds color, long-lasting, machine washable Uses: Leotards, leggings, basics, undergarments.
MERYL
Made From: knit or woven nylon developed by the company Nylstar Weight: light or heavy Texture: soft Points: luxurious feel and is machine washable, drying three times faster than cotton, hampers the production of bacteria on the skin, has UV reflective properties, crease resistant, retains shape Uses: leotards, leggings, undergarments, basics.
SUPPLEX
Made From: knit or woven nylon and spandex blend by the company Invista Weight: light Texture: soft Points: a cotton-like fabric that is breathable, comfortable, moisture wicking, machine washable, won’t shrink or fade Uses: leotards, leggings, undergarments, basics.
BAMBOO
Made From: bamboo plants, an ideal source for fabric production since they grow rapidly Weight: light to medium Texture: soft Points: antimicrobial, thermal regulating, moisture wicking, odor absorbing, resistant to mold and mildew, hypoallergenic Uses: leotards, tights, bags, T-shirts.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - May 2010)
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Clearing Up the Confusion about Dance Tights
Similar to other tights, dance tights are skin-tight leg coverings that are worn by the performers from waist to feet. Also similar to other tights, dance tights are sized according to height and weight. Sizes vary among manufacturers so always refer to the size chart (typically on the reverse of the package).
Dance tights materials:
Dance tights are made of different materials including nylon, lycra, and cotton, but the ones made with a blend of cotton and lycra are the most durable, opaque and thick. These tights are stretchable and comfortable for the dancers to wear. Cotton-lycra dance tights have flat finishes and absorb perspiration. Dance tights of nylon-lycra are a moderately shiny and stretchable tight.
Types of dance tights include:
Footed (also known as full foot) tights cover the entire foot, like pantyhose and dress tights.
Footless tights have no foot at all, like stretch pants they usually stop around the area of the ankle. Typically designed for Modern Dance, and Gymnastics. They are made of the same fabric as footed tights, so they keep muscles warm and stretch well.
Stirrup tights have a band of material that holds the tights in place over the arch of the foot, leaving the toes and ball of the foot uncovered.
Convertible tights (also known as transition or adaptatoe) have a hole in the foot under the arch. This allows them to be rolled up over the foot to the mid calf or ankle, to function as a footless tight, or stretched to cover the foot to serve as a footed tight. (Two tights in one!)
Helpful hint for putting on tights:
Tights are meant to cling to the legs, so getting them on without a snag from a fingernail is sometimes tricky. Instead of pulling the tights all the way up from your toes, try bunching up each leg of the tights accordian-style in your hands before slipping in your foot. Then carefully unroll the tights onto your legs.
Care of dance tights:
“Keep your tights clean!” But, tights need to get dirty. With proper execution of steps, the working foot touches the supporting leg from arch to knee. There should be dirt lines on the inside of ankles and knees, lines from inside arch to ankle to inside knee.
You should always follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for washing dance tights. As a rule, always hand wash tights and allow the tights to hang dry/drip dry.
If a small snag or run appears in the tights, apply a small amount of clear nail polish around the edges to prevent further tearing. This should allow you to slightly extend the life of the tights.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - June 2010)
Dance tights materials:
Dance tights are made of different materials including nylon, lycra, and cotton, but the ones made with a blend of cotton and lycra are the most durable, opaque and thick. These tights are stretchable and comfortable for the dancers to wear. Cotton-lycra dance tights have flat finishes and absorb perspiration. Dance tights of nylon-lycra are a moderately shiny and stretchable tight.
Types of dance tights include:
Footed (also known as full foot) tights cover the entire foot, like pantyhose and dress tights.
Footless tights have no foot at all, like stretch pants they usually stop around the area of the ankle. Typically designed for Modern Dance, and Gymnastics. They are made of the same fabric as footed tights, so they keep muscles warm and stretch well.
Stirrup tights have a band of material that holds the tights in place over the arch of the foot, leaving the toes and ball of the foot uncovered.
Convertible tights (also known as transition or adaptatoe) have a hole in the foot under the arch. This allows them to be rolled up over the foot to the mid calf or ankle, to function as a footless tight, or stretched to cover the foot to serve as a footed tight. (Two tights in one!)
Helpful hint for putting on tights:
Tights are meant to cling to the legs, so getting them on without a snag from a fingernail is sometimes tricky. Instead of pulling the tights all the way up from your toes, try bunching up each leg of the tights accordian-style in your hands before slipping in your foot. Then carefully unroll the tights onto your legs.
Care of dance tights:
“Keep your tights clean!” But, tights need to get dirty. With proper execution of steps, the working foot touches the supporting leg from arch to knee. There should be dirt lines on the inside of ankles and knees, lines from inside arch to ankle to inside knee.
You should always follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for washing dance tights. As a rule, always hand wash tights and allow the tights to hang dry/drip dry.
If a small snag or run appears in the tights, apply a small amount of clear nail polish around the edges to prevent further tearing. This should allow you to slightly extend the life of the tights.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - June 2010)
Labels:
care of tights,
convertible,
footed,
footless,
tights,
types of tights
Friday, January 14, 2011
Helpful Hints When Buying Ballet Shoes
Types of Ballet Shoes:
Ballet shoes, often referred to as slippers, are available with either a full sole or a split sole.
The simple construction of a FULL-SOLE BALLET SHOE often makes it a little less expensive than most split-sole shoes. Normally, a beginner ballet student will wear a full sole. As the name indicates, the sole of this ballet slipper is made from a single piece of material
In contrast, the SPLIT-SOLE BALLET SHOE has two pieces of material in the sole: one piece from the arch to the toes, and one piece from the arch to the heel. The seam created where these two pieces connect at the arch of the foot makes the split sole more form-fitting than the full sole. The split sole is very popular because the split accentuates the natural lines of the foot.
Both the full-sole and split-sole shoes have suede patches on the bottom: one under the toes, and one under the heel. These patches provide the right amount of friction between the shoe and the floor.
Ballet shoes, both full-sole and split-sole, are available in either canvas or leather.
CANVAS is less expensive than leather, and it is also cooler and more lightweight. One of the greatest benefits of canvas shoes is that they are washable, and they dry quickly.
Many dancers prefer LEATHER over canvas ballet shoes. The first reason is that leather more easily conforms to the shape of your foot. Many dancers also choose leather ballet shoes, because they generally last longer than canvas shoes.
Sizing Ballet Shoes:
Sizing is different on nearly every single ballet shoe. For example, your favorite manufacturer’s leather split sole may have different sizing than their canvas split sole.
Ballet shoes should have a very snug fit. If you’re buying for a young, growing dancer, you might be tempted to purchase shoes that are too large, expecting that your child will grow into them. But this is not recommended. A ballet shoe that fits improperly can be dangerous, and since regular practice will wear out any pair of ballet shoes within a few months, it’s best to buy shoes that fit properly.
When selecting your ballet-shoe size, the shoe should fit so that that there is no extra room. At the same time, the shoes should not be so tight that your toes curl under. When you point your foot, the heel of the shoe should not slip off, and there should be no gap between your foot and the inside of the shoe.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - April 2010)
Ballet shoes, often referred to as slippers, are available with either a full sole or a split sole.
The simple construction of a FULL-SOLE BALLET SHOE often makes it a little less expensive than most split-sole shoes. Normally, a beginner ballet student will wear a full sole. As the name indicates, the sole of this ballet slipper is made from a single piece of material
In contrast, the SPLIT-SOLE BALLET SHOE has two pieces of material in the sole: one piece from the arch to the toes, and one piece from the arch to the heel. The seam created where these two pieces connect at the arch of the foot makes the split sole more form-fitting than the full sole. The split sole is very popular because the split accentuates the natural lines of the foot.
Both the full-sole and split-sole shoes have suede patches on the bottom: one under the toes, and one under the heel. These patches provide the right amount of friction between the shoe and the floor.
Ballet shoes, both full-sole and split-sole, are available in either canvas or leather.
CANVAS is less expensive than leather, and it is also cooler and more lightweight. One of the greatest benefits of canvas shoes is that they are washable, and they dry quickly.
Many dancers prefer LEATHER over canvas ballet shoes. The first reason is that leather more easily conforms to the shape of your foot. Many dancers also choose leather ballet shoes, because they generally last longer than canvas shoes.
Sizing Ballet Shoes:
Sizing is different on nearly every single ballet shoe. For example, your favorite manufacturer’s leather split sole may have different sizing than their canvas split sole.
Ballet shoes should have a very snug fit. If you’re buying for a young, growing dancer, you might be tempted to purchase shoes that are too large, expecting that your child will grow into them. But this is not recommended. A ballet shoe that fits improperly can be dangerous, and since regular practice will wear out any pair of ballet shoes within a few months, it’s best to buy shoes that fit properly.
When selecting your ballet-shoe size, the shoe should fit so that that there is no extra room. At the same time, the shoes should not be so tight that your toes curl under. When you point your foot, the heel of the shoe should not slip off, and there should be no gap between your foot and the inside of the shoe.
(Part of our "Studio of the Month" series - April 2010)
Labels:
ballet shoes,
hints,
studio of the month
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